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💹 Investment Calculator

Project your wealth growth with compound returns and regular contributions. Compare conservative vs aggressive scenarios, and see what inflation actually does to your purchasing power.

Why Invest?

Keeping money in cash is not "safe" in any meaningful long-term sense — inflation erodes its purchasing power every year. At 3% annual inflation, $100,000 today is worth only $74,000 in real terms after 10 years. Investing is how individuals protect their purchasing power over time and build long-term wealth. The goal of this calculator is to make those abstract projections concrete and personal.

Expected Returns by Asset Class

Historical long-run returns vary significantly by asset class. These figures represent approximate annualised real (inflation-adjusted) returns from broadly diversified index funds, not individual stocks or actively managed funds:

Asset ClassNominal Return (approx)Real Return (after ~3% inflation)Risk Level
Cash / Savings Account3–5%0–2%Very Low
Government Bonds3–5%0–2%Low
Corporate Bonds4–6%1–3%Low–Medium
Global Equities (index)7–10%4–7%High
US Equities (S&P 500)9–11%6–8%High
Real Estate (REITs)7–9%4–6%Medium–High
⚠️ Past performance does not guarantee future results. These are long-run historical averages. In any individual year, returns can deviate dramatically — equities have lost 30–50% in bear markets. The figures above require patience measured in decades, not months.

The Impact of Fees on Investment Returns

Investment fees compound just as returns do — but in the wrong direction. A fund with a 1% annual expense ratio might seem trivial, but over 30 years it can reduce your final portfolio by 20–25% compared to a 0% fee equivalent. This is why low-cost index funds have become the dominant recommendation among financial economists.

Annual Fee$10,000 invested at 7% after 30 yearsCost vs 0% fee
0% (index fund)$76,123
0.1% (low-cost ETF)$73,955−$2,168
0.5%$66,439−$9,684
1.0%$57,435−$18,688
1.5%$49,268−$26,855

Dollar-Cost Averaging

Dollar-cost averaging (DCA) means investing a fixed amount at regular intervals — monthly or bi-weekly — regardless of market conditions. When prices are low, your fixed contribution buys more shares; when prices are high, it buys fewer. Over time, this smooths your average purchase price and removes the psychological pressure of trying to "time the market."

Research consistently shows that DCA produces outcomes nearly identical to perfect market timing for most investors — and dramatically outperforms the outcomes of investors who let fear and greed drive their timing decisions. Automated monthly contributions, set-and-forget, is the most practical implementation.

Tax-Advantaged Accounts

The account type in which you hold investments significantly affects your after-tax returns. In the US, the main tax-advantaged options are:

  • 401(k) / 403(b): Contributions are pre-tax (traditional) or post-tax (Roth). Employer matching is essentially a guaranteed 50–100% return on the matched amount — always contribute enough to capture the full match first.
  • IRA (Individual Retirement Account): Traditional IRA contributions may be tax-deductible; Roth IRA contributions grow and are withdrawn tax-free. 2024 contribution limit: $7,000 ($8,000 if age 50+).
  • HSA (Health Savings Account): Triple tax advantage — contributions are tax-deductible, growth is tax-free, and withdrawals for medical expenses are tax-free. Often called the best retirement vehicle available.
Priority order: (1) Contribute enough to 401(k) to get full employer match → (2) Max out HSA if eligible → (3) Max out Roth IRA → (4) Max remaining 401(k) → (5) Taxable brokerage account.

Risk Tolerance and Asset Allocation

How you divide your portfolio between stocks (equities), bonds, and other assets — your asset allocation — is the single most important investment decision you make. It determines both your expected return and the volatility you'll experience along the way.

A popular starting point is "110 minus your age" as a percentage to hold in equities. A 30-year-old would hold 80% equities and 20% bonds. As you approach retirement, you shift toward more stable assets to reduce sequence-of-returns risk. Target date retirement funds automate this process with a "glide path" that gradually becomes more conservative as your target date approaches.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much should I invest each month?
A common guideline is to save 15% of gross income for retirement, including any employer match. If you start later than 25, you may need to save more to compensate. The most important factor is consistency — investing a modest amount every month for 40 years outperforms large, irregular contributions in almost every scenario.
What return rate should I use in my projections?
For a diversified stock/bond portfolio over a 20-30+ year horizon, 6–7% is a commonly used real (inflation-adjusted) return assumption. For nominal projections (not adjusted for inflation), 8–10% is reasonable for a mostly-equity portfolio. Using a conservative assumption and being pleasantly surprised is preferable to over-optimistic planning.
Should I invest a lump sum or spread it out?
Academically, lump-sum investing outperforms dollar-cost averaging about two-thirds of the time — because markets go up more than they go down. However, DCA is better for most people psychologically, and investing consistently is vastly more important than the specific timing. If you have a large sum to invest and it causes anxiety to invest it all at once, spreading it over 6–12 months is a reasonable compromise.
What is the 4% rule for retirement?
The 4% rule states that you can withdraw 4% of your portfolio in the first year of retirement, then adjust for inflation each year, with a high probability of your money lasting 30 years. It implies you need approximately 25× your annual expenses saved to retire. At $50,000/year in expenses, you'd need roughly $1.25 million. This is a starting point, not a guarantee — sequence of returns risk, healthcare costs, and longevity can all affect outcomes.